Sunday, November 18, 2007

Rack and Soul: No Brisket but Good Pork

It is well known in certain circles that I have a thing for barbecue. More than a little thing, if the truth be known. Having said that, I am primarily a brisket man. Perhaps its the good Jewish boy upbringing, perhaps its an appreciation for how difficult it is to get brisket right. More likely, I just really like brisket.

In any case, I was a little nervous when I saw the menu at Rack and Soul, at 2818 Broadway (110th Street: tel 212-222-4800). Lots of pork, in the form of ribs and pulled pork. Lots of chicken: barbecued, fried or smothered. Even catfish. But, true to its non-Texas roots, no brisket. Well, I was not be deterred. Also, despite what I wrote in the preceding paragraph, I really have a thing for pulled pork, too, and have had difficulty in getting anything particularly good in New York.

Its worth going to Rack and Soul for the pulled pork alone. Soft, mildly fatty, and not dripping in sweet sauce, the pork is fantastic. The ribs were quite good as well. Sides (the usual standards, including collards, black eyed peas, cole slaw, etc.) were all ok, but the the reason to go. The pre-dinner biscuits, dusted with sugar and clearly made with enough shortening to give your cardiologist a heart attack were she to know you were eating it, are divine.

A final shout out to Rack and Soul goes to how nice they were when 10 of us, including 4 kids, walked in without a reservation. Although they did suggest we get reservations next time (duh!) they were very accommodating to us and we were able to get seated.

Now that the kids hockey season is in full bloom, I will be spending a lot of time up in Morningside Heights and Lower Harlem. Rack and Soul will be joining my list of places worth going after a cold day of watching youth hockey. Next time, I'm doing catfish! Lets hope I get to the gym afterwards!

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